It’s been 5 years since I was last in Greece/Italy - see the Bus Ride from Hell for more from that trip - and I have been reliving it through my photo memories over the last month. I often get asked by people about my personal highlights from my travels, so I thought I would give you some of mine - keeping in mind these are the less than obvious ones, obviously you should see the Colosseum and Parthenon! These are 5 stops that I would recommend if you’re in the neighbourhood:
1. Hydra, Greece
In the Saronic Gulf near Athens is my own personal vision of paradise - the island of Hydra. 5 years ago, our trip stopped off on the island as part of a ferry tour of the gulf, and my only complaint was that we didn’t get to spend longer. This island had it all - beautiful blue-green water, cats everywhere, a sheltered harbour with steep hills all around, no cars but plenty of donkey rides, and cosy little streets and shops. And even more than that, there were gorgeous cats everywhere - I even saw someone whose job was to feed them and honestly, what could be better?
I can’t stress enough how much of an impression this island made on me - it was truly divine!
2. The Ara Pacis, Rome, Italy
This one really surprised me, especially because I had already been teaching about this in my Art & Architecture topic for several years. Nothing could prepare me for how incredible it was to be in the room with this phenomenal structure. If you’re not familiar, the Ara Pacis Augustae was a monumental altar constructed during the ‘Golden Age’ of Augustus as a piece of propaganda. It depicts on the outer wall, amongst other things, a religious procession of priests, senators and the Imperial family. Other panels included depictions of Aeneas, Romulus and depictions of Roman peace. All of that description cannot do justice to the incredible scale of the piece.
Before you even walk up to it, you’re struck by the sheer scale of it. The front doorway is much bigger than any person, making it almost seem like it was built for giants. The altar itself is up so high, you feel literally elevated. There are even small holes at the front and sides to allow the sacrificial blood to drain out! The depth of the relief sculpture is incredible, with the figures coming out of the marble in a way no 2D photo can do justice.
The Ara Pacis has its own museum and is near the newly opened Mausoleum of Augustus in Rome, so I would definitely recommend going!
3. Naples Archaeological Museum, Italy
Now most people will have at least Pompeii on their itinerary if they are interested in discovering Ancient Rome, and often Herculaneum too. However, what some people miss is the nearby Archaeological Museum in Naples. Why? Well, that’s where the majority of the stuff from those sites actually is - artefacts, mosaics, frescoes and more, all preserved and archived in the Museum. What’s more, it is always pleasant to see artefacts in a museum from the place they actually belong to!
Highlights from the museum include the gigantic Alexander mosaic, which takes up an entire wall; many amazing marble statues including the Farnese Hercules and the Tyrannicides; famous Pompeii frescoes and mosaics that you’re bound to have seen before; and so, so much more. There are even a couple of unrolled scrolls from the Villa of the Papyri, one of history’s most tantalising finds. If you’re in town to see Pompeii, make sure you make time to see the museum too.
4. Nîmes, France
Ok so this one isn’t actually in Italy but it has an incredible Roman presence to this day, which has been lovingly restored. Nîmes lies on the southern coast of France, not so far from the Italian border. In Roman times, Nemasus was an important stop on the road between Italia and Hispania, and was one of the first Roman colonies in Gaul after Caesar’s conquest - in fact it may have been settled by many of his veterans. During the reign of the Empire, the town saw incredible building projects as Rome extended its influence abroad, including the buildings still standing today.
The first of these is the Maison Carrée, a classic example of a Roman style temple with pseudoperipteral columns and a large, single room - which now houses a film experience showing the area and its importance in Roman times. Nearby you will also find the amphitheatre known as the Arena of Nîmes, which is impressive in its scale and how relatively intact it still is. They even host shows and recreations at times, so it’s worth trying to visit to get the realistic experience.
Even better is that while you’re in the neighbourhood, it’s a short drive to the impressive Pont du Gard, an enormous Roman aqueduct that delivered fresh water to the town. It is a testament to the strength and longevity of Roman engineering that it still stands, and you can comfortably walk across it and even swim in the river! Yet again, nothing can prepare you for the size until you stand beneath it.
5. Theatre at Epidaurus, Greece
Nestled in the wooded hills around Epidaurus is a beautiful ancient theatre that has been so well restored it regularly hosts live shows and concerts. As with so many Greek theatres, it sits in the perfect hollow of the hill to allow for maximum acoustic range and clarity. You can stand at the very top of the seating and hear crystal clear punctuation from anyone on the stage. Just be very careful not to make too much noise on the stage or the attendants will whistle you off!
The stunning views of the countryside combined with the al fresco experience on a warm Mediterranean evening make for a magical experience. While you’re in the neighbourhood, you can also visit the nearby site of Mycenae, fabled citadel of the Bronze Age civilisation from the world of Homer. It’s one of the oldest places you can visit in Greece and includes the famous 3,000 year old cyclopean walls, beehive-shaped tholos tombs, and the Lion Gate that many of those Homeric heroes may well have passed through. An excellent two-for-one deal!
So, there’s five of my favourite places to visit, that might not be so well known - do you have your own recommendations? Leave them in the comments!
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